Services

Servicing
OK I had a bit of a think about this, partly because one or two other
sites have sprung up offering repairs and using wording a bit like that
which used to appear here. But mainly because of the experience I've
had over the years, and the way I now answer phone calls about
'servicing' amps.
My conclusions are simple: if your amp works ok, it doesn't need
servicing. How's that? I can have a look at it for you, but really if
you're not getting any symptoms from it and it sounds ok, then my view
is that it is ok.
Things that might suggest it's time for me to look at it include
microphonics (tapping the amp makes noise through the speaker),
crackles and irregular or increased hiss, hum, noisy pots/knobs, dodgy
jacks - you know the sort of thing.
You ought to have a PAT test once a year. You don't necessarily need me
to do this - anyone with a PAT tester with in-date calibration can do
it, it's pretty easy. All electricians can do it. PAT testing runs a
heavy whack of current right through the earth system of your amp, from
the earth pin to the chassis (I tend to use the
earth on the input jack as that's the one that counts) - if there's
anything in there that's hanging by a thread it will frazzle it and
fail the amp. The insulation in the lead is also tested. Then you get
the little sticker on the back that venues sometimes like to see.
If you want new valves fitted and biased I can do that - £30 flat
fee for installing and biasing. It's fine of you bring your own valves
for me to fit. Otherwise I will fit good ones for £15 a power
valve, £10 a preamp valves - prices which have remained tyhe same
despite huge increases in valve prices since the pound went awol.
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Repairs
If your amp
goes down, give me a call. If you bring it round we can have a listen
and as far as possible I'll tell you what's involved in putting it
right.
If you have to
have it couriered to me, here's a Repair
consignment form for you to
fill in. Don't forget to put it in the box, now, will you Henry... and
when I get the amp I'll take a look and give you a call before getting
too deeply into it.
It would be
nice to say, I'll have a look and give you an estimate, but in truth
with most jobs by the time I truly know what's wrong with it, I've
fixed it. But you can trust me to be economical and sensible in sorting
it out.
To try to give
a guide, it might help if I say that most repairs take one to three
hours. Complex transistor amps can take longer, as can jobs that are
more in the nature of a rebuild, as can modifications that need
tweaking and tuning to get just right.
I do promise to
warn you if a repair looks like it's getting uneconomical. And remember
my rule - no fix, no fee.
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Customising /
Modification / Upgrades
Sometimes you
hear a sound in your head that you just can't get out of your amp.
If you've got an example of an
amp that you think could be doing better, or could sound more like
"so-and-so's", then there may be a number of things we could do.
Tweaking and
modding
Getting a
"hotter" or "cleaner" sound from your amp may be as simple as swapping
valves, installing a different speaker (not always the expensive
imports) or changing one or two little pre-amp components.
Sometimes it's
a bit more fiddly. One popular mod is "blackfacing" Fender amps from
the 70's. It's cheaper than going out and buying an original '63.
Designing and
fitting extra gain stages is no problem, though it's surprising how
much spare gain there often is to be found in the most gentlemanly of
old amps at the price of a few hours' work and a resistor or two.
However we definitely won't suggest that re-cabinetting your combo in
rare Guatemalan Wiggly-tree hardwood and fitting solid gold jacks will
get you the "Johnny Whoozat" sound.
Either way,
tell me what you hear in your head and I can recommend simple,
effective changes that can get you closer to your goal. We'll talk you
through the options, work out a cost and get back to you.
Steve's
Custom Shop
No this doesn't
mean kicking your bassman reissue round the yard in the rain to make it
look like a '59... but hot-rodding and customising amps in a rather
more radical way than 'tweaking' might suggest is definitely a
possibility, though it very much depends on what's already there. More
gain stages, more power supply 'sag', pentode/triode or fixed
bias/cathode bias switches, wholesale configuration changes - it often
can be done. Call up for a talk about this.
However, your
mum, partner and bank manager will be pleased to know that there are
some things we just won't do. If you want your Fender to sound like a
Marshall, it might be better to buy a Marshall!
I do build
amps, and when I get round to it will post pics of my own harp and
guitar amps, which are fully handbuilt including cabs. For me to build
such an amp for you (something I have done for people in the past)
would have to cost around £1500 because of the hours involved,
and given that most of that cash would immediately evaporate in terms
of resale value you will probably not want to go that route.
However there
are other options...
I can do major
rewires on old (and otherwise knackered) amps like silverface Fenders
etc. Examples of this kind of thing that I've done recently include
rewiring the normal channel of a silverface Bassman with a
Vibroking-type preamp (and adding a feedback lift switch to complete
the VK cloning process), and rewiring a silverface Showman with the '59
Bassman preamp plus some switchable extra gain.
Budget
£200-300 for major rebuilds like that (not bad for a custom-built
point-to-point amp). Simpler 'standard' mods like chaining the parallel
gain stages in old Marshalls are cheaper.
Another way
forward might be for you to purchase one of the now quite cheap and
widely available classic amp kits (eg those at Ted Weber's site)
- and get me to build it. I can upgrade components and introduce mods
as I go. Up to £300 for the labour on such a build.
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...a
teensy
bit more like Little Walter (harp players' section)
Like the harp
tone of your guitar amp but need to lose the feedback?
Tired of the
"gain on one, no sound whatsoever - gain on 2, screeching feedback and
a hell of recrimination with your fellow musicians" situation?
Fancy a little
bit more variation on the tone controls than bass on 10, mid and treble
on 1? Not hard to do.
Simple valve
swaps will take us a long way in cutting feedback and increasing volume
and grind. I can revoice your amp for harp by switching some internal
components. I can advise you on mics too, and maybe flog you one.
I might even
let you blow through my 50s black label CR element Green Bullet.
[That's enough harp voodoo - ed.]
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