Servicing
Sometimes
your amp just doesn't sound as good as it did.
Or maybe
you wake up in the middle of the night, sweating because it's years
since the inside of your Marshall head saw daylight, the way guitarists
do...
Maybe
you've got a gig coming up, and you're worried it's going to crap out
on you at a critical moment...
Either
way, it's time to give your best (musical) friend a treat. It's like
sending them off on a little holiday, from which they come back fit,
tanned and healthy. In servicing your amp my number one aim is its
reliability.
First,
I'll switch on and play it for a while to get a sense of where the
amp's at. Then I check the components, and note any required
replacements, possible little tweaks etc. If it falls within the
standard service spec, I go ahead and sort it; if it looks complicated
I ring you with the news & at least some idea of the extra cost.
The
standard service includes cleaning, chassis integrity check, and simple
component
checks and replacements, and where necessary or requested a re-valve
and re-bias with my idea of the best current production valves, which I
stock. Labour for this process will be either £30 or £60
depending on the amp, plus cost of valves (£10 per preamp valve,
£15 per power valve) and any major components like filter caps.
Valves
currently stocked are: EH/Sovtek 6CA7s for EL34 applications; EH
6L6WXT+, and for preamps JJ ECC83S and Phillips/JAN 12AT7.
Where
replacement components are no longer available or
prohibitively expensive, I'll consult with you over modern equivalents.
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Repairs
If your amp
goes down, give me a call. If you bring it round we can have a listen
and as far as possible I'll tell you what's involved in putting it
right.
If you have
to have it couriered to me, here's a Repair
consignment form for you to fill in. Don't forget to put it in the box, now,
will you Henry... and when I get the amp I'll take a look and give you
a call before getting too deeply into it.
It would be
nice to say, I'll have a look and give you an estimate, but in truth
with most jobs by the time I truly know what's wrong with it, I've
fixed it. But you can trust me to be economical and sensible in sorting
it out.
To try to
give a guide, it might help if I say that most repairs take one to
three hours. Complex transistor amps can take longer, as can jobs that
are more in the nature of a rebuild, as can modifications that need
tweaking and tuning to get just right.
I do
promise to warn you if a repair looks like it's getting uneconomical.
And remember my rule - no fix, no fee.
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Customising
/ Modification / Upgrades
Sometimes
you hear a sound in your head that you just can't get out of your amp.
If you've got an example of an
amp that you think could be doing better, or could sound more like
"so-and-so's", then there may be a number of things we could do.
Tweaking
and modding
Getting a
"hotter" or "cleaner" sound from your amp may be as simple as swapping
valves, installing a different speaker (not always the expensive
imports) or changing one or two little pre-amp components.
Sometimes
it's a bit more fiddly. One popular mod is "blackfacing" Fender
amps from the 70's. It's cheaper than going out and buying an original
'63. (Beware! Some silverface fenders don't blackface well - we'll let
you know if yours can be 'rodded in this way).
Designing
and fitting extra gain stages is no problem, though it's surprising how
much spare gain there often is to be found in the most gentlemanly of
old amps at the price of a few hours' work and a resistor or two.
However we definitely won't suggest that re-cabinetting your combo in
rare Guatemalan Wiggly-tree hardwood and fitting solid gold jacks will
get you the "Johnny Whoozat" sound.
Either way,
tell me what you hear in your head and I can recommend simple,
effective changes that can get you closer to your goal. We'll talk you
through the options, work out a cost and get back to you.
Steve's
Custom Shop
No this
doesn't mean kicking your bassman reissue round the yard in the rain to
make it look like a '59... but hot-rodding and customising amps in a
rather more radical way than 'tweaking' might suggest is definitely a
possibility, though it very much depends on what's already there. More
gain stages, more power supply 'sag', pentode/triode or fixed
bias/cathode bias switches, wholesale configuration changes - it often
can be done. Call up for a talk about this.
However,
your mum, partner and bank manager will be pleased to know that there
are some things we just won't do. If you want your Fender to sound like
a Marshall, it might be better to buy a Marshall!
I do build
amps, and when
I get round to it will post pics of my own harp and guitar amps, which
are fully handbuilt including cabs. For me to build such an amp for you
(something I have done for people in the past) would have to cost
around £1500 because of the hours involved, and given that most
of that
cash would immediately evaporate in terms of resale value you will
probably not want to go that route. However there are other options...
I can do
major rewires on old (and otherwise knackered) amps like silverface
Fenders etc. Examples of this kind of thing that I've done recently
include rewiring the normal channel of a silverface Bassman with a
Vibroking-type preamp (and adding a feedback lift switch to complete
the VK cloning process), and rewiring a silverface Showman with the '59
Bassman preamp plus some switchable extra gain. Budget £200-300
for major rebuilds like that (not bad for a custom-built point-to-point
amp). Simpler 'standard' mods like chaining the parallel gain stages in
old Marshalls are cheaper.
Another way
forward might be for you to purchase one of the now quite cheap and
widely available classic amp kits (eg those at Ted Weber's site)
- and get me to build it. I can upgrade components and introduce mods
as I go. Up to £300 for the labour on such a build.
...a
teensy bit more like Little Walter (harp players' section)
Like the
harp tone of your guitar amp but need to lose the feedback? Tired of
the "gain on one, no sound whatsoever - gain on 2, screeching feedback
and a hell of recrimination with your fellow musicians" situation?
Fancy a little bit more variation on the tone controls than bass on 10,
mid and treble on 1? Not hard to do. Simple valve swaps will take us a
long way in cutting feedback and increasing volume and grind. I can
revoice your amp for harp by switching some internal components. I can
advise you on mics too, and maybe flog you one. I might even let you
blow through my 50s black label CR element Green Bullet. [That's enough
harp voodoo - ed.]
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